/vid/ – Video General Fuck List

 Archived Threads:Here's some quick tips to get you started if you're new and looking to buy some kit. Please do your own research beyond this and don't shit up the thread. If you don’t know what so 

A thread for anyone interested in working with video in any form – narrative, documentary, videography or what have you. Discussion of technique, links to your own actual work and so on is preferred – we’re not here to spoon feed you. Ask on the thread. fuck

Read this:

http://pbhttps://docs.google.com/document/d/1bq3mjijnnrgmzScFyBaBPOPUL_14Nt7Y-3i7OBv WF717M00Ablogassets.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/2016/02/101-Filmmaking-Tips-and-Tricks.pdf

If you want to have aids

Cameras: (Amazon prices, body only

$150: EOS-M Cheapest Canon you can get for Magic Lantern. Good feature set, good enough image quality (720p Raw, Soft 1080p/24p). Needs adapted lenses.

$450:  – Very strong low cost performer. Better 1080 than EOS-M. Ergonomic quibbles. Using a generic mirrorless cage helps. 

$500: A6000 – Same image and interface as A5100, but with a viewfinder and a hotshoe. Same ergonomic problems as A6300.

$600: G7 (with kit lens) – Slightly nerfed 4k compared to GH4 but 4K, good image, solid body.

$980: Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera – Difficult to work with, but excellent 1080 image.

$995: Blackmagic Micro Cinema Camera – Difficult to work with, accessories a must, but has 13-stops dynamic range and 1080 image. Great for drones. 

$1000: A6300Extremely versatile at price, beautiful 4K at 24p and 30p, softish but usable 1080 slow motion at 120fps, no pixel binning, SLog 2 and 3, usable footage even at 12800 ISO. Battery life, Ergonomics, and menus are all still bad though. Possible overheating issues and very poor rolling shutter.

$1000(used): Samsung NX1-– Bad news: It’s a dead mount with no live EF adapter, only dummy adapters. Also its discontinued. Good news: most samsung lenses are very good and pretty cheap for what they are, and its a great camera to use vintage/manual glass with– mirrorless means easy adapting. The *really* good news: It downscales from a full sensor 6K readout, and has canon-level skintones/color science. Its Gamma DR flat profile grades very nicely though. Has mild in-body digital stabilization for when you’re in a pinch, and does real DCI standard 4k.  120fps 1080p is better than that of the a6300, has a fantastic interface, headphone monitoring (with half-decent pre-amps!), and an incredible EVF & LCD. Doesn’t overheat either. Great through 1600 ISO, good through 3200, unusable past that. In short: recommend this to someone who can’t quit canon– its the closest look they’ll get to it.

$1300: GH4 – Flexible, VLog for $100 more, shoots 4K and 96fps, though anything above 60fps will look pretty bad for this camera, god tier battery life.

$2200: A7s – God tier low light performance. Full sensor image readout, comes with SLOG2 support. Adapted lenses pretty much a must. Very bad rolling shutter unless shooting in S35 (crop) mode.

$2510: C100 – Great ergonomics in a pro body; great image. Lots of technical limitations, but all-round very solid.
$2800: Blackmagic Cinema Camera – More capable, larger version of the Pocket Cinema Camera. Same drawbacks.

$3000: A7sII – Same as above but with internal 4K 30p recording, 120 fps 1080p in crop, in-body image stabilization, 8-bit makes S-log useless, not to mention S-log3 is bugged with no fixes in sight, avoid at all costs, go for the FS5 instead.

$6000: FS5 – Get this if you want to do any decent video. Covers pretty much everything you want to do without having to accessorise your shit (much). Slap on a lens, maybe with an adapter if that’s your thing and you’re golden. Super 35 sensor, 10-bit 422, records to SDXC cards, electronic ND filters, fast/slow motion, 240fps, no menu diving, comfy ergonomics, lightweight, small, SDI-out, XLR jacks, decent battery life, the list goes on and on.

Remember that you also need to factor in the cost of…


Common recommendations for starter glass are: Vintage FDs, Nikkors, M42s, Sigma 18-35 1.8

Sharpness/resolving power matters less for video, though acutance/microcontrast remains important. Things like focus breathing, focus ring smoothness and parfocality become important factors.


General Starter Gear:

Tripod: ($120), VT4000 ($150), Secced ($300+fuck Chinese Sachtler knockoffs)

Follow Focus: DP500IIS, DP3000 ($150, to be paired with shoulder rigs)

Microphone, TRS: VideoMic ($150), VideoMic Pro (w.) ($200)

Microphone, XLR: AT875 ($170)

Audio Recorder: DP500IIS($200, best paired with a USB power pack)

Final Cut

Good Forums:





Colour Grading:





(http://provideocoalition.com/pvcexclusive/story/helpful-ways-for-cinematographers-to-get-a-grip-on-lighting-part-4 Start with part 2 and work backwards)


Video Coding:



Free Audio Assets:






Video Editing Software:

AVID (Good for features/series, subscription is monthly basis)

Adobe Premiere (Good for corporate/effects heavy client work and short films, be careful of plans, there are shady sales tactics)

Autodesk Smoke (Unless you are also a 3d artist, probably better to go AVID or Premiere)

DaVinci Resolve (Free colouring software/ingestion software)

Final Cut (Mostly Defunct, X is basically iMovie with a new skin and branding.)

Windows Movie Maker (Baby's first editing software, avoid unless you have literally no other option)

If you have access to lynda through a school email or something, that’s a decent resource. If your public library system isn’t shit you might be able to access lynda with your library card number.

You guys are lame


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